Sara Holder. Furniture. January 05th , 2018.
Choosing Industrial Furniture: While choosing industrial furniture keep in mind that the industrial era used materials that were bulky and heavy such as solid wood and steel. These pieces were made to last for years and took alot of wear and tear. You can still find some of these peices today. Their worn, weathered look gives them character and adds a bit of drama to any space. They may be covered in leather, heavy denim, linen, cotton ticking or wool. Besides wood and steel you may find pieces made of galvanized metal and iron with muted industrial paint and powder-coated finishes.
The same hot iron and gluing method is used in repairing marquetry. Lay a piece of paper over the missing section and rub with a soft pencil to get an outline of the area. Cut the paper to the pattern and stick it to the replacement piece of wood. Cut the wood slightly larger than the pattern and rub down with glass-paper until the exact fit can be obtained. Stick it into place with cold wood glue. On many antique furniture pieces the marquetry tends to lift through age and using the warm iron technique will heat the glue and the raised piece can be gently pressed down back into position. If dust has been trapped under the lifted section, it should be removed, cleaned and re-stuck into position.
Of these, resin-based synthetic rattan is of course the most popular, as well as the most widespread across public consciousness; however, unlike what many home-owners might think, not every rattan garden furniture item is made of the same type of synthetic polymer. Much to the contrary, rattan items on the market can be made out of any one of four types of resin: polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC or nylon.
Cover cushions with a third bedspread you cut to fit, allowing an added 5 about. Wrap anyone would a present list of OKA Direct furniture codes; official site, and secure with safety pins each and every corner.
Wood veneers can be difficult to match. It is possible to buy new veneer strips, but they are generally thinner than the old hand-sawn veneers and do not always match in colour. It often pays to go to an auction to look for a broken oddment of furniture that has suitable veneers. To remove a veneer from its backing, first clean off any old polish with white spirit and carefully clean the varnish or wax. Place a damp cloth over the cleaned strip and press with a fairly hot iron. Keep the cloth damp. This melts the Scotch glue holding down the veneer, which can then be peeled off. The same technique is used to raise small areas on the antique piece, but use a soldering iron instead of an iron. Wipe all traces of glue while it is still warm. Dampen the veneer and flatten it between two pieces of wood for about 24 hours before use. Do not let it dry completely, for veneers must be re-laid while still damp and pliable. The replacement veneer should be slightly thicker than the existing one, to allow for sanding. Stick the new strip down with Scotch glue and apply a weight or clamp until the glue has completely set. Wax and polish to match the existing finish.
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